This text was produced in cooperation with the Center for Investigative Journalism of Montenegro (CIN-CG)
Despite meeting the criteria for protection, these habitats — valuable for biodiversity even in Europe — are full of garbage, illegal construction, unauthorized logging, and poaching. Fires are set deliberately, tires are burned, and the environment is polluted.
Piles of trash that nobody cleans up, areas turned into illegal dumps, plastic, bags, car tires, dead animals… This is how Ćemovsko Polje near Podgorica and Velika Plaža with its hinterland in Ulcinj now look — habitats that, due to their specificity and exceptional biodiversity value, are candidates for two important international ecological networks: Emerald and Natura 2000.
Whether due to neglect or insufficient information, most citizens we surveyed online are unaware that these areas have great ecological potential and biodiversity value, nor that they could become part of important global nature protection networks. The state should take better care of these areas.
Emerald habitats are considered crucial for biodiversity conservation in Europe. These areas have been selected because of the presence of rare, endemic, and endangered species, as well as habitats of great ecological importance at the European level. The European Union (EU) countries, as well as some countries in Europe, North Africa, and Asia, work on forming this network. The network is based on the Convention on the Conservation of European Wildlife and Natural Habitats, known as the Bern Convention. Countries that have signed this convention are obligated to protect and maintain the areas they nominate for this network. Montenegro did so in 2009 and nominated 32 areas in 2011. Non-compliance with EU conventions slows Montenegro’s EU accession and negatively affects the country’s integrity.
Ćemovsko Polje is one of the few remaining natural pseudosteppes of the Eastern Mediterranean. Although recognized as a potential Emerald site, this field covering 55.5 square kilometers near Podgorica has become a victim of illegal waste dumping, tire burning, poaching, arson, illegal logging, and unauthorized construction.
Velika Plaža faces a similar fate. One of the most beautiful beaches in this part of Europe, with an endless sandy shore stretching 13 kilometers, it is home to unique species, some of which inhabit only this specific habitat. For years, parts of this magical area have been turned into illegal dumps.
An additional threat comes from recent announcements by Montenegro’s Prime Minister Milojko Spajić that the land of both Emerald candidates could be repurposed. “I see a city forming on Velika Plaža, I see a Central Business District on Ćemovsko Polje,” said Spajić during a guest appearance on the “DisKrimiNacija” podcast by the NGO Center for Civic Freedoms (CEGAS).
The previous management of the responsible ministry told the Center for Investigative Journalism of Montenegro (CIN-CG) that the main harmful human impacts on these areas are intensive urbanization and, on Ćemovsko Polje, intensive agriculture.
“The basic measure for protecting Ćemovsko Polje (and other candidates) is the official designation as an Emerald area, on which we are working in cooperation with relevant institutions and organizations. The Directorate for Nature Protection proposed as a protective measure that officially nominated Emerald candidates be included in Montenegro’s Spatial Plan until 2040, which is currently being developed,” the government ministry states.
Both Ćemovsko Polje and Velika Plaža have also been identified as potential Natura 2000 sites. Velika Plaža was protected in 1968 and currently holds the status of a natural monument, while Ćemovsko Polje officially has no protection status yet, despite fulfilling all criteria according to various national and international strategic documents.
The Natura 2000 network covers protected areas within the EU territory. The key difference between Natura 2000 and the Emerald network is that countries neglecting declared Natura 2000 sites can be held accountable in court. In EU countries, Natura 2000 corresponds to what Emerald is for EU candidate countries, meaning obtaining Emerald status is practically a prerequisite for Natura 2000.
Ćemovsko polje as a Treasury of Medicinal Herbs
Photo: “Ćemovsko polje” Jelena Popović, CDE
“The plant and animal world is diverse on Ćemovsko polje. Although most associations connect it with a landfill and illegal construction, this area is one of the rare natural pseudosteppes in the Balkans. Unlike steppes, pseudosteppes (such as Ćemovsko polje) with grasses and annual plants have a typical Mediterranean distribution in areas with Mediterranean or altered Mediterranean climate. These are semi-natural habitats because, although composed of plant species that have spontaneously developed and adapted, they are replaced by or preceded by woody plant communities. Pseudosteppes are often the result of disturbance processes usually linked to human activities: fire, livestock grazing, crop cultivation, and forestry,” explains Dragana Saveljić, a biologist from the Montenegrin Ecologists Society (MES), for CIN-CG.
According to her, approximately one-fifth of the total flora in Montenegro has been identified in Ćemovsko polje — about 1,153 plant species, of which 34 are Balkan endemics, and four exist only in the territory of the former Yugoslavia. One of these four is the Dalmatian hyacinth (Hyacinthella dalmatica), a strictly protected species, a rare plant with bell-shaped, bluish individual flowers. “It is here to remind us that the sky above Ćemovsko polje can be as clean and blue as its petals, and that its habitat’s survival depends on us,” says Saveljić.
In this area, plants from the families of grasses, knapweeds, legumes, and lamiaceae dominate the most. One can find as many as 17 species from the orchid family, which is almost half of the total number of orchid species in Montenegro.
Even in King Nikola’s time, Saveljić points out, the great potential of Ćemovsko polje for growing medicinal plants was recognised. “Back then, the field was mostly used to grow pyrethrum, an aromatic plant known worldwide as a natural insecticide.”
Besides pyrethrum, Ćemovsko polje is home to sage, chamomile, immortelle, thyme, wormwood… One can often find lemon balm, mint, balm (plants commonly known as ‘iva’ and ‘pepeljuša’ in the local language), as well as heather, an important melliferous plant.
According to Saveljić, due to the large number of sunny days (essential oils synthesise most intensively under strong sunlight), it is believed that chamomile from Ćemovsko polje contains twice as much azulene as those grown in other parts of Europe. “That is just one of the reasons why Ćemovsko polje is an exceptional habitat. Immortelle is one of the most sought-after aromatic plants, highly valued and expensive, especially in the cosmetics industry. Its name (Helichrysum, helios – sun) indicates where we can find this plant, and where is sunnier than the dry and warm hills around Ćemovsko,” says the biologist.
She reminds us of an old medieval saying – “Why should a man die when he has sage growing in his garden?” “We could rephrase this to ‘Why should a man die when sage grows on Ćemovsko polje?’ Wouldn’t it be nicer to breathe in the essential oils of aromatic plants than the smoke of burning tires? Wouldn’t it be better to collect free medicinal herbs than to accumulate heavy metals and microplastics for the generations to come?” she asks.
Several decades ago, Ćemovsko polje was covered by Plantaže 13. jul vineyards, which today are considered the largest continuous vineyard in Europe. Today, we witness the extreme expansion of Podgorica and Tuzi, as well as Plantaže, construction of infrastructure, exploitation of land and gravel, and uncontrolled waste disposal. All these activities conducted on Ćemovsko polje have significant negative effects,” the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) told CIN-CG.
Based on research from 2016 to 2019, the EPA found that out of several thousand hectares of Ćemovsko polje, only 924 hectares remain that look as they did before Podgorica and Tuzi began to grow and before the vineyards were built. “This area has been proposed as a candidate for specially protected areas (SPA) under the Birds Directive, and Ćemovsko polje is especially important during the spring bird migration, when a huge number of birds entering Montenegro over the Bojana Delta and then over Koplik and the dry area around Lake Skadar pass through Ćemovsko polje, Bjelopavlići Plain on their way to destinations in central, eastern, northern Europe, and even Siberia. There is also a huge number of raptors that pass over Ćemovsko polje, making it an important resting site during migration.”
The EPA further notes that Ćemovsko polje is important for several species of warblers, which are food for raptors. “We can only hope that with the declaration of protected areas under the Natura 2000 network, the proposed protected part of Ćemovsko polje will be secured and that protection will ensure the survival of these bird species, which are so-called Natura 2000 species.”
The significance of areas like Ćemovsko polje is beautifully illustrated by the fact that some steppes are under UNESCO protection. For example, the Eastern Mongolian steppes, the largest remaining untouched temperate grasslands on Earth.
Birds build nests among the trash
Ćemovsko polje is also a potential Area of International Importance for Plants (IBA), an Area of International Importance for Birds (IPA), and a Key Biodiversity Area (KBA). It is home to over 40 bird species, some of which are strictly protected by the Birds Directive, such as the great and short-toed lark, the nightjar, the tawny pipit, the lesser grey shrike, the steppe shrike, the bee-eater, and the jackdaw. Birds in this area predominantly build their nests on the ground, in the grass, among rocks. And among trash.
Andrijana Mićanović, a biologist from the Montenegrin Society of Ecologists (MES), told CIN-CG that Ćemovsko polje is an important habitat for several reptile species, notably the four-lined snake (Elaphe quatuorlineata), the leopard snake (Zamenis situla), and the Hermann’s tortoise (Testudo hermanni). “All three species are protected at the national and international levels (European Habitats Directive – Annex II, Annex IV). Considering this is an unurbanized area and with ensured connectivity to surrounding unurbanized lands, Ćemovsko polje will have an important role in maintaining present populations in the future,” Mićanović explains.
This area also has a characteristic entomofauna. “In this habitat type, the majority of present insect species belong to butterflies, orthopterans (crickets), and hymenopterans. These groups have a stable food source and breeding grounds for larvae due to the presence of numerous herbaceous plant species. Four conservation-significant butterfly species are found here — Euphydryas aurinia, Zerynthia polyxena, Iphiclides podalirius, and Papilio machaon. There are also three endemic cricket species specific to the Dinaric region and the Balkan Peninsula — Barbitistes ocskayi, Ephippiger discoidalis, and Eupholidoptera chabrieri,” said biologist Bogić Gligorović for CIN-CG.
From the NGO EnvPro, it is emphasized that certain conservation measures for Ćemovsko polje would be important. Among them, primarily cleaning the entire area, which would be one of the most demanding activities in terms of finances, time, and resources, but also one of the most necessary.
They also highlight that the area has great tourism potential but that development in this direction must be based on respect for nature. “That is why we built a birdwatching hide, where nature lovers, photographers, and ornithologists can stay and observe birds that gather at the constructed pond in front of the hide. Additional hides can be established in the area.” The NGO also notes that maintaining the field through low-intensity grazing or mowing would be beneficial.
The Spatial-Urban Plan of the Capital City — Podgorica until 2025 envisaged areas for individual housing (low-density housing) on the edges near Omerbožović and Dinoša, as well as areas for agriculture, sports, and recreation. In 2022, when Ivan Vuković was acting mayor of Podgorica, the city announced plans to build a central city park covering 43.7 hectares on Ćemovsko polje, near the administrative building of the Football Association of Montenegro (FSCG) and the football camp. An electronic platform, nacemovsko.me, was launched where citizens could propose ideas for the park’s design. Suggestions included creating a botanical garden, artificial hills and lakes with islands, aquariums, a rose garden and flower beds, a water park, and an outdoor wedding venue.
It is important to emphasise, however, that any investment must consider the uniqueness and importance of Ćemovsko polje as it currently is and has always been from a biodiversity perspective.
While conducting a socio-economic analysis, the NGO EnvPro also learned that a large number of citizens are interested in protecting Ćemovsko polje.
Velika plaže is being destroyed by unsustainable spatial planning, dunes are disappearing
Photo: “Sea holly – Eryngium maritimum” by Jelena Popović, MES
The architect and executive director of the NGO Dr. Martin Schneider-Jacoby Association (MSJA), Zenepa Lika, believes that the key harmful impacts on Velika Plaža (Long Beach) stem from unsustainable spatial planning and land use in the area.
“We can start with the Special Purpose Spatial Plan (SPSP) OP – DSL sectors 65 and 66, which parceled Velika Plaža (and its hinterland) into sectors for tourism, effectively condemning this part of the coast. Although the significance of this area and the threats it faces have been highlighted, there is no adequate monitoring of the activities taking place here. This primarily refers to the management by the Public Enterprise for Coastal Zone Management (JPMD) and how parts of the beach are leased,” Lika explains.
Although there are clear guidelines on how the beach can be used and what can and cannot be built, on-site enforcement is nonexistent. “The mere fact that lessees are tacitly allowed to install access towers, and even asphalt roads in protected dunes, shows that profit is the only thing that matters. A large part of these unique dunes, which serve to protect the beach from erosion, has been destroyed and converted into parking lots for bathers. The negative impacts on this area extend to the surrounding wetland habitats. In the name of tourism development, unique landscapes are being sacrificed, clearly showing there is no serious approach to protecting this area,” she adds.
From JPMD, in a statement for CIN-CG, they said that the Service for Coastal Development and Construction has undertaken works in recent years to temporarily construct artificial dunes in front of HTP Ulcinj Riviera buildings. They explained that these activities were carried out in phases and involved building dunes for the winter season and flattening them to create usable beach space for the summer tourist season. “The DSLs provide clear guidelines for both development and protection of the area, which means the land wasn’t parceled but rather divided into modules through DSLs,” they claim.
Long-term consequences of human activities on Velika Plaža and its hinterland include biodiversity loss and irreversible destruction of natural values. “Ultimately, we could lose the entire area. The most important thing is to strengthen field control by competent inspection bodies and improve their cooperation with other state institutions,” JPMD also said.
Lika points out that, institutionally, there are no adequate penalties in place, nor has any plan been made to rehabilitate the illegal landfills that are spreading throughout the Velika Plaža hinterland. “Although the municipal utility company launched several cleanup actions this year, it’s not enough. No one is addressing the issue of septic tank emptying at hotels, which happens near the beaches, including the wetland part of Velika Plaža.”
Photo: “Velika Plaža and its hinterland” by Jelena Popović, MES
Former officials from the relevant ministry say that, in order to provide better protection for Velika Plaža, the Environmental Protection Agency is preparing a revision study, which is in its final phase. “The revision will propose protection measures and other important aspects of conservation,” the ministry told CIN-CG.
Valuable Dunes Disappearing
The architect and executive director of MSJA believes that spatial plans must be revised to reflect the importance of Velika Plaža. “An analysis of the current state should be conducted with recommendations and guidelines for the restoration and rehabilitation of dunes and the beach hinterland. Stricter control is needed, along with dedicated monitoring and a management plan for the area. The number of beach lessees should be reduced, which would also reduce the number of parking lots, restaurants, storage facilities…,” Lika notes, proposing the introduction of public transport, such as an e-bus, to bring tourists to Velika Plaža.
In her 2016 doctoral dissertation, Geobotanical Characterization of the Vascular Flora of Velika Ulcinjska Plaža and its Hinterland in Montenegro, author Nada Bubanja points out that the site remains under-researched. “There are 16 plant endemics in the area of Velika Plaža and Ada Bojana Island – 11 Balkan endemics and five subendemics whose ranges extend beyond the Balkans. There are 12 Natura 2000 habitat types present,” the dissertation states.
Velika Plaža and its hinterland host a variety of habitat types, from sandy beaches and mobile dunes – which are very rare – to Mediterranean salt meadows, seasonal Mediterranean pools, tall hydrophilic Mediterranean meadows, and riparian forests of white willow and poplar, among others.
From MES, it is emphasised that the wetlands at Velika Plaža are a unique habitat in Europe: “They host many bird species. For example, this is home to about 1% of the total European population of the rare waterbird – the little crake (Porzana parva). This bird is protected in Montenegro. The wetland habitats in the hinterland of Velika Plaža are extremely important, as they are home to a special species of green frog – the Skadar frog (Pelophylax shqipericus), which is a Balkan endemic and protected by law in Montenegro.”
Velika Plaža is also rich in rare vegetation. In its surroundings, one can find plant species protected by national legislation and EU directives. One of them is the Skadar oak, an endemic subspecies of pedunculate oak (Quercus robur), the only legally protected oak in Montenegro. Research by the Montenegrin Ecologists’ Society revealed that lowland forests of this oak once thrived in the Bojana River valley, but due to human impact, they now survive only as isolated trees or small island-like patches. One of the symbols of Velika Plaža is the beautiful sea daffodil (Pancratium maritimum).
Photo: “Sea Daffodil – Pancratium maritimum” Jelena Popović, MES
The various habitat types found across the Velika Plaža (Long Beach) area, its hinterland, and the Bojana River Delta form a unique ecosystem complex with a high concentration of diverse aquatic and terrestrial habitats within a relatively small area, explains this biologist. “The diversity of habitat types in this area provides living conditions for a large number of insect species with different adaptations. This region is one of the globally significant centers of biodiversity,” he notes.
It has also been proven that the sand at Velika Plaža has healing properties and is suitable for medical applications, particularly for treating spinal conditions, rheumatism, disc disorders… However, today, in some places, the sand is no longer visible due to various types of waste that have accumulated over the years.
Both Ćemovsko Polje and Velika Plaža are true natural treasure troves close to urban areas, where people find refuge, spaces for recreation, peace, and inspiration. Their importance was particularly highlighted during the COVID-19 crisis, when people sought places for relaxation and calm. If their destruction continues—through the development of industrial zones, hangars, and hotels for mass tourism—where will people go in the future?
According to data from the European Environment Agency (EEA), by the end of 2021, protected areas covered 26% of the EU’s territory, with 18.6% of these designated as part of the Natura 2000 network.
The EU Biodiversity Strategy for 2030 aims to protect at least 30% of EU territory by 2030, and at the same time ensure that all protected areas are effectively managed.
Montenegro, a country striving to become an EU member, is significantly behind in meeting obligations under EU requirements, judging by the state of Ćemovsko Polje and Velika Plaža. This lag also impacts the needs of its own population and biodiversity conservation.
Velika Plaža and its hinterland: an important insect habitat
In the hinterland of Velika Plaža, including the Bojana Delta, 21 insect species of conservation significance have been recorded, says biologist Bogić Gligorović for the Center for Investigative Journalism of Montenegro (CIN-CG). “Four important beetles live here – Cerambyx cerdo, Osmoderma barnabita, Lucanus cervus, and Oryctes nasicornis. Cerambyx cerdo is a vulnerable species on the IUCN Red List of Europe, while Oryctes nasicornis is protected under national legislation. The species Luciola novaki is endemic to Ulcinj. Six significant butterfly species are present in this area – Euplagia quadripunctaria, Lycaena dispar, Euphydryas aurinia, Zerynthia polyxena, Iphiclides podalirius, and Papilio machaon, along with several important species of dragonflies and damselflies – Cordulegaster heros, which is near threatened on the IUCN Red List of Europe, Lindenia tetraphylla, listed as vulnerable. The Bojana Delta, together with Lake Skadar, is one of the globally most important areas for this species. Other species like Lestes macrostigma, Cordulegaster bidentata, Gomphus schneiderii, and Onychogomphus forcipatus are also listed as Near Threatened (NT) on the IUCN Red List of Europe.”
According to Gligorović, five endemic species of bush-crickets also live in this area – Acrometopa macropoda, Saga natoliae, Barbitistes ocskayi, Ephippiger discoidalis, and Eupholidoptera chabrieri.
This text was created within the project “Ecological Networks – A Key to Development Based on Preserved Nature,” implemented by the Montenegrin Ecologists’ Society (CDE). The project is supported by the Centre for Civic Education (CGO), as part of the program “CSOs in Montenegro – From Basic Services to Policy Shaping – M’BASE,” funded by the European Union and co-financed by the Ministry of Public Administration. The contents of this text are the sole responsibility of the Montenegrin Ecologists Society and do not necessarily reflect the views of CGO, the European Union, or the Ministry of Public Administration.
